On the dot

Spotted: The best way to carry off appliqued dotty chic this season.

“Fashion rebels against the static; it is always in flux,” as Jane Mulvagh highlighted in Vogue’s History of 2oth Century Fashion book. To each trend, silhouette, fad and movement that dominated fashion through the ages, she asserts, “a reaction is (simply) inevitable.” A valid point though that may be, it seems to be much less to do with fashion as a reactive swinging pendulum, drifting from one excess to another, than about its inherent pressure of aspiration. It revolves around the creation of ideals delivered at an ever more frenetic pace through a melee of style advisor apps (Ask a Stylist et al), the scrutiny of blogging and, lest we forget, the dreaded haul vlogging phenomenon. How zealously fashion and style businesses compete for their products to get a place in such divinely influential liturgies of fashion – whether they be the scriptures of celebrity gossip, fashion blogs or a conspicuously spoiled brat with a webcam and too much time on their hands – to be recommended as the gospel truth of all that’s oh so now by the “experts.” Terry Eagleton pointed out in The Significance of Theory “Power succeeds by persuading us to desire and collude with it; this process is not merely an enormous confidence trick, since we really do have needs and desires which such power, however partially and distortedly, is able to fulfill,” so now you know. My sincere thanks for his use and acknowledgement of the word “distortedly” but I digress, since that may be the mentality fashion wants to perpetuate to keep us buying and consuming to keep it afloat, but here at Chic Cheat, I have other ideas, namely those of the recycling, reworking and customising persuasion. That’s right – stick that, academics! Looks like you don’t have to play the financially feckless fashion victim to be fabulous, after all! Or should I stay out of that debate, being at a disadvantage as only a part-time navel-gazer?

While we’re on the subject of ever-changing fashion, I spent most of my art education theorising on post-modernism and the idea that every possible style has already been done, but in a way that leaves an array of possible references and permutations that can be mixed together in different ways to create new visual messages. This gave me some meaty food for thought and the motivation to dissect the meanings of each look I explore as well as the clothes I cut and splice through to recreate them. This season has seen a resurgence of sixties trends, including jewel tones, bold Cardin-esque tailoring and an explosive, body-conscious take on polka dots. It’s out with the quaint, clown-like fare of fifties fashion…

… and in with the spotty sex appeal of the sixties…

…reiterated as a collaged concoction today – for us to celebrate in DIY-form.

Difficulty

Medium 

More on the painstaking and time-consuming side, this one, but a good technique and precision for circle cutting certainly helps.

You will need

A white dress with a mesh top

1.5x 1m white twill or a similarly stiff fabric

1m bondaweb

White thread

Ruler

Compass and pencil

Iron and ironing board

Sharp fabric scissors

 

 And your mission is, if you choose to accept…

Fold your twill in half, across the length and sandwich your bondaweb in between.

Iron your bondaweb in place on a high heat, one side at a time. Maybe I should mention that you need to peel the paper off the second time around – just sayin’!

Using your compass, pencil and ruler (as you may see, I used a patternmaster for mine but fear not for a ruler will do) measure and draw a circle 5cm in diameter directly onto your fabric and repeat this 50 or so times. Ensure you only do this on the twill that has bondaweb and another layer beneath it.

Using your fabric scissors, cut your circles out. I find it helps most to skim your scissors along the edge, pulling on the fabric as you go, to avoid nasty jagged edges.

Repeat this process with 150-200 smaller circles 2cm in diameter. This process may prove long-winded and hard work, so I recommend you stick the telly on or some of your favourite music, or perhaps even a DVD – here at Chic Cheat we like to take a liberal view of each reader’s approach, you’ll be pleased to know.

Time to finally stitch them on individually. It’s yet another painstaking phase but it’s thankfully on the home run. Stitch most of your larger circles in a cluster on the bust with the rest sprinkled sparingly around the top, and your smaller circles in a linear cluster across the middle of both sides of the skirt, graduating more sparingly outwards towards the top and bottom.

…And you should have something that looks like this:

A spot of stylish crafty chic to see you through the season!

R U Miu Miu?

There are so many of us creative types who find ourselves lingering under the category of “visual creator.” That is, less pretentiously put, a person paid to draw attention to a product and increase its sales by making it pretty. From artists and graphic designers through to composers, all parties concerned are united in their ultimate goal of making their products seductive. One such discipline you’ve probably heard of is “visual merchandising” or strategically and beautifully placing retail products on display in a shop window to turn heads – an turn in those all-important profits. This is practised everywhere from Topshop to the corner shop.

“Never judge a book by its cover” your mum probably told you, but anyone looking to apply that sort of logic to the clothing business is clearly looking at the wrong book, and needs to pick up another one entitled “You Don’t Get A Second Chance at a First Impression” How many times have you walked into a shop you didn’t plan on entering because you were lured, and consequently reeled in by the evil clutches of, the window display? Research has shown that most of us tend to turn right as we enter a shop. My own bitter experience suggests that you enter transfixed beneath the glare of the bright lights, towards a triptych of mannequins styled to the hilt in an outfit you wouldn’t normally have as a gift, even if you were paid a six figure sum or assigned to wear it for a charity as an alternative to being baptised clumsily in a vat of fermenting baked beans…and yet you’re intrigued enough to step inside and try the garments on. Wending your way to the changing rooms, you’re bombarded with a delectable confection of styling options and accessories to try, each one proving ever more tempting than the last. Even in times of medal-worthy resilience, when you do manage to resist and succeed in your mission to the register undeterred, don’t think you can breathe your much deserved sigh of relief yet, for there awaits yet another array of shiny belts, make-up and novelty lip balms. Cute – purchase! Alas! There are also huge flagship stores who take the shopping-as-entertainment aspect to the extreme with nail bars and even in-store hair salons, pulling out every possible stop to stimulate every sense in your body and squeeze every penny from your purse. It’s not like this by accident, but thanks to the feverish strategic, formulaic and – possibly – creative efforts of a team of merchandisers trying to promote the company and its image as much as the goods.

Images: Marcio Madeira/ Firstview.com, Rankin for Elle UK, Cheryl-online.net

…And now for something a bit different- the one thing that can shift record clothing sales in the blink of a liquid-lined eye, more so than any nail bars or visual merchandising can hope to – celebrities! Have we got a Chic Cheat treat for you, dear readers. Not only am I referencing THE collection of next season, but giving you a double DIY whammy of two A-listers’ oufits. In the black corner, we have Cheryl Cole. In the lilac corner, we have Lily Allen. I bet you didn’t think we could get both of them on the same bill with the notorious feuding history they have – well, so I’ve heard. I’m not the greatest follower of celebrity gossip, especially regarding catfights. I’ve a relative who says that there are 3 sides to every story – or argument – your side, my side and the truth. I find that for every celebrity brawl there are 3 possible sides the dearly adoring public can take – Team *insert first person’s name*, Team *insert second person’s name* and Team Couldn’t give a Flying Fuck! No prizes for guessing which side I tend to find myself on. Still, a trend is still a trend, a fashion statement is a fashion statement, and it is my civil cyber duty to share the craft of that trend with you all. So, once again, here’s how to get the look…

Cole Runnings

Images: Marcio Madeira/ Firstview.com, Cheryl-online.net

You will need…

  • A strappy black dress, which Asda do for £14 (product code 3281105)
  • Half a metre of black jersey.
  • 1m of black PVC, available at most good haberdashers, prices may vary.
  • Black bias binding, available at all good haberdashers, prices may vary.
  • Silver wire – £1.85 from most jewellery shops and haberdashers.
  • Pliers.
  • Needle and black thread
  • Scissors
  • Scalpel
  • Sewing machine

Hours

This one should take about 2 days.

Difficulty

Medium

Nothing too taxing here.

Let’s Frock!

Cut 14 flower shapes out of your PVC, in varying sizes 2 to 5cm in width.  Glue them, matt side to matt side, onto the rest of your PVC and cut the shapes out again, so that you have 14 PVC flower shapes that are shiny on both sides.

Cut out 28 flower shapes, identical in size to the PVC flowers, in black jersey.  These must be the same size as the PVC flowers, so cut 14 matching pairs of flowers in different sizes varying from 2cm to 5cm in width.

Machine-stitch each of the matching pairs together, 5mm from the edge.

With each of your new fabric flowers, cut away as much of the excess fabric around the edges as possible, without cutting into the seam.  Cut a small “X” in the middle of the flower, on the top layer of the fabric.  Turn the flower inside-out, so that no raw edges are visible.

Attach your fabric flowers to your PVC flowers of the same size.  The side with the “X” shape cut out must be face down, so that it is not visible from the outside.

Now to make the metal filaments for each flower.  You can do this with your silver wire and pliers.  Twist your wire into spokes, bending the wire outwards and back again, and twisting your wire spokes into spiral-like shapes, as shown in the illustration, below:

Stitch your filament patterns into the centre of your flowers.

Cut two oar-like shapes out of your black jersey which are about 5cm longer than your dress straps.  Fold black bias binding around the edges and machine-stitch it in place.

Attach these pieces to your dress directly on top of your straps.

Finally, stitch your flowers onto your new straps.

My variation

…Same principle, slightly different dress.

The Allen Key to Success

Images: Marcio Madeira/ Firstview.com, Rankin for Elle UK

You will need…

  • A white lace dress – I found one in Primark for £13 (prod. no. 8083671)
  • A metre of white lace with a clear floral pattern, ideally with flowers of different sizes.  You might need to buy two different fabrics – half a metre of each.  Mine came to £11.50 from Barry’s Fabrics in Birmingham (1 Moseley Street, Birmingham B5 6JX tel. 0121 622 6102)
  • White and violet thread
  • Needle
  • Pins
  • Scissors
  • Scalpel
  • Dylon Intense Violet hand fabric dye – £3.25 from Hobbycraft
  • Half a metre of violet jersey.
  • 1m of violet PVC (or, better still, metallic silver PVC if you can find some), available at most good haberdashers, prices may vary.
  • Violet bias binding, available at all good haberdashers, prices may vary.
  • Silver wire – £1.85 from most jewellery shops and haberdashers.
  • Pliers
  • Sewing machine

Hours

This one should take 4-5 days.

Difficulty

Medium

Nothing too taxing here.  It gets a bit fiddly at times, but I’d say this one was more a test of patience than skill, you’ll be pleased to know.

Let’s Frock!

We go a little in at the deep end in the mind-numbing stakes, unfortunately, for this laborious yet essential stage.  All you have to do is cut 100-200 flowers out of your lace, or as many as you can find, without your eyes crossing!

You can also use the borders of your lace fabric.  Simply cut out 4 pieces and make a flower shape out of them as shown in the picture below:

Congratulations on surviving that lengthy process, now all you have to do is sew them on, one by one, in neat rows like those in the following picture.

Good news:  Not only do you officially deserve a medal for your tireless embellishing, but you should have your own version of the following Miu Miu dress:

Images: Marcio Madeira/ Firstview.com

…Which looks something like this:

Violet Delight

If you want to get Lily’s look, you’ve got to change the colour of the dress to violet, so this is where your violet dye comes in.  Ensure that you follow the instructions on your dye carefully.

Cut 14 flower shapes out of your PVC, in varying sizes 2 to 5cm in width.  Glue them, matt side to matt side, onto the rest of your PVC and cut the shapes out again, so that you have 14 PVC flower shapes that are shiny on both sides.

Cut out 28 flower shapes, identical in size to the PVC flowers, in violet jersey.  These must be the same size as the PVC flowers, so cut 14 matching pairs of flowers in different sizes varying from 2cm to 5cm in width.

Machine-stitch each of the matching pairs together, 5mm from the edge.

With each of your new fabric flowers, cut away as much of the excess fabric around the edges as possible, without cutting into the seam.  Cut a small “X” in the middle of the flower, on the top layer of the fabric.  Turn the flower inside-out, so that no raw edges are visible.

Attach your fabric flowers to your PVC flowers of the same size.  The side with the “X” shape cut out must be face down, so that it is not visible from the outside.

Now to make the metal filaments for each flower.  You can do this with your silver wire and pliers.  Twist your wire into spokes, bending the wire outwards and back again, and twisting your wire spokes into spiral-like shapes, as shown in the illustration, below:

Stitch your filament patterns into the centre of your flowers.

Cut two oar-like shapes out of your violet jersey which are about 5cm longer than your dress straps.  Fold black bias binding around the edges and machine-stitch it in place.

Attach these pieces to your dress directly on top of your straps.

Finally, stitch your flowers onto your new straps.

And, if I’m not much mistaken, you should have something that looks like this: