True Collars

So for this week’s entry I thought I’d keep my big, opinionated gob shut – or to a minimum so far as verbose introductions go – and my tutorial restoratively easy after my big print-fest and starry shorts of the not-too-distant past. However, to those helming and pricing high street fashion, know only this: To accessorise an outfit with an elegant collar is surprisingly awesome, to charge silly money for the privilege is bullshit! To see what I mean, and to let the numbers do the talking, please refer to the technically inclined and completely objective diagrams below:

Oh, and while we’re on the subject of value, you’ll be pleased to know this entry gives you two collars for the price of one, both of them as easy as falling off a log – and pretty much equally inexpensive!

The second outing’s in the direction of Zara with their £18 pink lace collar. £18. Really. The price of a quality top or dress and you get something like 1/50th of a garment! Ahem, rant better out than in, methinks! Now to cut to the chase…

 

Difficulty

True to my word, this has to be the easiest, least time-consuming venture I’ve taken on in a long time, possibly even in Chic Cheat history.

 

Time

Want to go pink and frilly? You’re looking at a half hour job, tops.

Looking to toughen up with studs and leather? Oi! Wot u lookin’ at? Realistically, 2 hours or so, depending on how good you are at stud insertion.

 

You will need…

For the a study in how to get “studdy”

Pack of 100 6mm studs (£3.50 with postage and packing from Ebay – seller ashkx007)

Pack of jewellery connector rings (99p/pack at Hobbycraft)

Lobster clasp (99p/pack of two at Hobbycraft)

Scalpel

0.5m stiff interfacing (I can’t remember what I paid for mine or even if I just scrounged it off my university for free back in the day. I just had it lying around, as I often do with these things)

Computer (like the one from which you’re presumably reading this entry) with a printer and Photoshop (or equivalent program)

Metallic gel pen

Masking tape (optional)

Fabric scissors

Sewing machine with a leather needle fitted

Leather or pleather (Editor’s note – if you want the real McCoy, fish it out of a leather shop’s offcuts bin, or better still, do as I did and pick a cut up jacket out of the reject bin. It’ll be useless to them but invaluable for shoe and accessory projects – mine lasted for three. I paid about £3 for mine, whereas a full leather skin sets you back around £20!)

 Iron and ironing board

 

For a flouncy flight of fancy

Pink collared shirt (I used a men’s shirt – £5 from a charity shop but you can strike it lucky and pay even less. They start at around £3 with postage and packing on Ebay)

White lace (I paid quite a bit for mine since I cut it off a garment, but you can find some on Ebay for less than £2 with postage and packing – search “White guipure lace”)

Fabric glue (starting at £2.79 from Hobbycraft)

Fabric scissors

 

So, without further ado, my little stud muffins (terrible pun, model’s own) here’s how it’s done…

Print out the pattern above, making sure it’s 22.5cm in length (Photoshoppers, check using the rulers function)

Cut out your pattern outline using your scalpel. Place it on your leather and use tiny amounts of masking tape on the edges to hold it in place. Trace around the outline using your metallic gel pen. Repeat this another three times so you have four pieces.

Cut out your pieces.

Iron your interfacing onto two of your pieces.

Divide your pieces into two pairs, both of which have one piece with interfacing and one without. Machine sew each pair together, using a leather needle.

Using your pattern, put each piece underneath it once again and use your scalpel to trace out the circles where the studs need to go. Prod four equidistant points around each circle (I would say corners but they’re circles we’re dealing with – you get the idea!) and make sure they all go through both layers.

Now to start putting your studs in. Use the holes you prodded to slip the points of your studs through. You’ll probably need to use your scalpel to open the holes and to help coax the stud points through – I should know, I did.

Place both of your pieces back-to-back with the edges completely parallel, and pierce two holes – one at the top and one at the bottom – to make absolutely sure they’re symmetrical.

Insert two interlinking rings at the bottom and four at the top – two on one side and two alongside the lobster clasp on the other…

…And you should have something that looks rather like this:

To get lacy…

Cut the collar off your shirt.

Cut your lace to fit your collar.

Glue your lace on.

Result!!!

 

Boom! Owned – and now you can make your own, too. Lucky you!

Day 5 with… me!

So, today it’s my turn to take over on the DIY Bloggers Fashion Week with my creative ode to the Spring/Summer 2012 shows. The fashion statement in question? Like Carly, I chose to sartorially say it with flowers, as it were, and looked to London Fashion Week for my inspiration. My entry is a hand-crafted version of Matthew Williamson’s floral printed blouse:

Image: Style.com

You will need

A white top or blouse (mine was a converted muumuu – £7, charity shop buy)

Screen printing kit (mine was by Artrain and cost about £3 from Ebay)

Iron and ironing board

Lots of plastic carrier bags

Sewing pins

Computer – with Photoshop installed – and a printer

Tissues

Water for rinsing brushes, also a tub of water for soaking and washing screens after use

Paintbrushes – ideally with a small, fine tip

Metal 30cm ruler

Palette knife

Fabric paints in the following colours(I recommend Pebeo opaque fabric paints, £3.99 at Hobbycraft and worth it because they’re not runny like many other fabric paints ):

Other fabric paint colours you’ll need, included with the screen printing kit, are:

 

Time

About 1-1.5 hours to trace each screen.

About 12-15 hours for screen printing/ blending/ linear pattern painting

About 30 minutes for ironing and preparation

 

Difficulty

Very Hard

Don’t be put off but I found this a tricky one and I learnt quite a bit on the job. It might have been down to my choice of equipment (the method in my madness was to avoid forking out £50-80 for a professional screen printing kit and not having access to a printing studio – unless you count my bedroom!) A word of warning – screen printing’s a very messy business so take extra care to protect clothes and furniture!

The Video Tutorial

 

Result!

R U Miu Miu?

There are so many of us creative types who find ourselves lingering under the category of “visual creator.” That is, less pretentiously put, a person paid to draw attention to a product and increase its sales by making it pretty. From artists and graphic designers through to composers, all parties concerned are united in their ultimate goal of making their products seductive. One such discipline you’ve probably heard of is “visual merchandising” or strategically and beautifully placing retail products on display in a shop window to turn heads – an turn in those all-important profits. This is practised everywhere from Topshop to the corner shop.

“Never judge a book by its cover” your mum probably told you, but anyone looking to apply that sort of logic to the clothing business is clearly looking at the wrong book, and needs to pick up another one entitled “You Don’t Get A Second Chance at a First Impression” How many times have you walked into a shop you didn’t plan on entering because you were lured, and consequently reeled in by the evil clutches of, the window display? Research has shown that most of us tend to turn right as we enter a shop. My own bitter experience suggests that you enter transfixed beneath the glare of the bright lights, towards a triptych of mannequins styled to the hilt in an outfit you wouldn’t normally have as a gift, even if you were paid a six figure sum or assigned to wear it for a charity as an alternative to being baptised clumsily in a vat of fermenting baked beans…and yet you’re intrigued enough to step inside and try the garments on. Wending your way to the changing rooms, you’re bombarded with a delectable confection of styling options and accessories to try, each one proving ever more tempting than the last. Even in times of medal-worthy resilience, when you do manage to resist and succeed in your mission to the register undeterred, don’t think you can breathe your much deserved sigh of relief yet, for there awaits yet another array of shiny belts, make-up and novelty lip balms. Cute – purchase! Alas! There are also huge flagship stores who take the shopping-as-entertainment aspect to the extreme with nail bars and even in-store hair salons, pulling out every possible stop to stimulate every sense in your body and squeeze every penny from your purse. It’s not like this by accident, but thanks to the feverish strategic, formulaic and – possibly – creative efforts of a team of merchandisers trying to promote the company and its image as much as the goods.

Images: Marcio Madeira/ Firstview.com, Rankin for Elle UK, Cheryl-online.net

…And now for something a bit different- the one thing that can shift record clothing sales in the blink of a liquid-lined eye, more so than any nail bars or visual merchandising can hope to – celebrities! Have we got a Chic Cheat treat for you, dear readers. Not only am I referencing THE collection of next season, but giving you a double DIY whammy of two A-listers’ oufits. In the black corner, we have Cheryl Cole. In the lilac corner, we have Lily Allen. I bet you didn’t think we could get both of them on the same bill with the notorious feuding history they have – well, so I’ve heard. I’m not the greatest follower of celebrity gossip, especially regarding catfights. I’ve a relative who says that there are 3 sides to every story – or argument – your side, my side and the truth. I find that for every celebrity brawl there are 3 possible sides the dearly adoring public can take – Team *insert first person’s name*, Team *insert second person’s name* and Team Couldn’t give a Flying Fuck! No prizes for guessing which side I tend to find myself on. Still, a trend is still a trend, a fashion statement is a fashion statement, and it is my civil cyber duty to share the craft of that trend with you all. So, once again, here’s how to get the look…

Cole Runnings

Images: Marcio Madeira/ Firstview.com, Cheryl-online.net

You will need…

  • A strappy black dress, which Asda do for £14 (product code 3281105)
  • Half a metre of black jersey.
  • 1m of black PVC, available at most good haberdashers, prices may vary.
  • Black bias binding, available at all good haberdashers, prices may vary.
  • Silver wire – £1.85 from most jewellery shops and haberdashers.
  • Pliers.
  • Needle and black thread
  • Scissors
  • Scalpel
  • Sewing machine

Hours

This one should take about 2 days.

Difficulty

Medium

Nothing too taxing here.

Let’s Frock!

Cut 14 flower shapes out of your PVC, in varying sizes 2 to 5cm in width.  Glue them, matt side to matt side, onto the rest of your PVC and cut the shapes out again, so that you have 14 PVC flower shapes that are shiny on both sides.

Cut out 28 flower shapes, identical in size to the PVC flowers, in black jersey.  These must be the same size as the PVC flowers, so cut 14 matching pairs of flowers in different sizes varying from 2cm to 5cm in width.

Machine-stitch each of the matching pairs together, 5mm from the edge.

With each of your new fabric flowers, cut away as much of the excess fabric around the edges as possible, without cutting into the seam.  Cut a small “X” in the middle of the flower, on the top layer of the fabric.  Turn the flower inside-out, so that no raw edges are visible.

Attach your fabric flowers to your PVC flowers of the same size.  The side with the “X” shape cut out must be face down, so that it is not visible from the outside.

Now to make the metal filaments for each flower.  You can do this with your silver wire and pliers.  Twist your wire into spokes, bending the wire outwards and back again, and twisting your wire spokes into spiral-like shapes, as shown in the illustration, below:

Stitch your filament patterns into the centre of your flowers.

Cut two oar-like shapes out of your black jersey which are about 5cm longer than your dress straps.  Fold black bias binding around the edges and machine-stitch it in place.

Attach these pieces to your dress directly on top of your straps.

Finally, stitch your flowers onto your new straps.

My variation

…Same principle, slightly different dress.

The Allen Key to Success

Images: Marcio Madeira/ Firstview.com, Rankin for Elle UK

You will need…

  • A white lace dress – I found one in Primark for £13 (prod. no. 8083671)
  • A metre of white lace with a clear floral pattern, ideally with flowers of different sizes.  You might need to buy two different fabrics – half a metre of each.  Mine came to £11.50 from Barry’s Fabrics in Birmingham (1 Moseley Street, Birmingham B5 6JX tel. 0121 622 6102)
  • White and violet thread
  • Needle
  • Pins
  • Scissors
  • Scalpel
  • Dylon Intense Violet hand fabric dye – £3.25 from Hobbycraft
  • Half a metre of violet jersey.
  • 1m of violet PVC (or, better still, metallic silver PVC if you can find some), available at most good haberdashers, prices may vary.
  • Violet bias binding, available at all good haberdashers, prices may vary.
  • Silver wire – £1.85 from most jewellery shops and haberdashers.
  • Pliers
  • Sewing machine

Hours

This one should take 4-5 days.

Difficulty

Medium

Nothing too taxing here.  It gets a bit fiddly at times, but I’d say this one was more a test of patience than skill, you’ll be pleased to know.

Let’s Frock!

We go a little in at the deep end in the mind-numbing stakes, unfortunately, for this laborious yet essential stage.  All you have to do is cut 100-200 flowers out of your lace, or as many as you can find, without your eyes crossing!

You can also use the borders of your lace fabric.  Simply cut out 4 pieces and make a flower shape out of them as shown in the picture below:

Congratulations on surviving that lengthy process, now all you have to do is sew them on, one by one, in neat rows like those in the following picture.

Good news:  Not only do you officially deserve a medal for your tireless embellishing, but you should have your own version of the following Miu Miu dress:

Images: Marcio Madeira/ Firstview.com

…Which looks something like this:

Violet Delight

If you want to get Lily’s look, you’ve got to change the colour of the dress to violet, so this is where your violet dye comes in.  Ensure that you follow the instructions on your dye carefully.

Cut 14 flower shapes out of your PVC, in varying sizes 2 to 5cm in width.  Glue them, matt side to matt side, onto the rest of your PVC and cut the shapes out again, so that you have 14 PVC flower shapes that are shiny on both sides.

Cut out 28 flower shapes, identical in size to the PVC flowers, in violet jersey.  These must be the same size as the PVC flowers, so cut 14 matching pairs of flowers in different sizes varying from 2cm to 5cm in width.

Machine-stitch each of the matching pairs together, 5mm from the edge.

With each of your new fabric flowers, cut away as much of the excess fabric around the edges as possible, without cutting into the seam.  Cut a small “X” in the middle of the flower, on the top layer of the fabric.  Turn the flower inside-out, so that no raw edges are visible.

Attach your fabric flowers to your PVC flowers of the same size.  The side with the “X” shape cut out must be face down, so that it is not visible from the outside.

Now to make the metal filaments for each flower.  You can do this with your silver wire and pliers.  Twist your wire into spokes, bending the wire outwards and back again, and twisting your wire spokes into spiral-like shapes, as shown in the illustration, below:

Stitch your filament patterns into the centre of your flowers.

Cut two oar-like shapes out of your violet jersey which are about 5cm longer than your dress straps.  Fold black bias binding around the edges and machine-stitch it in place.

Attach these pieces to your dress directly on top of your straps.

Finally, stitch your flowers onto your new straps.

And, if I’m not much mistaken, you should have something that looks like this: