On the dot

Spotted: The best way to carry off appliqued dotty chic this season.

“Fashion rebels against the static; it is always in flux,” as Jane Mulvagh highlighted in Vogue’s History of 2oth Century Fashion book. To each trend, silhouette, fad and movement that dominated fashion through the ages, she asserts, “a reaction is (simply) inevitable.” A valid point though that may be, it seems to be much less to do with fashion as a reactive swinging pendulum, drifting from one excess to another, than about its inherent pressure of aspiration. It revolves around the creation of ideals delivered at an ever more frenetic pace through a melee of style advisor apps (Ask a Stylist et al), the scrutiny of blogging and, lest we forget, the dreaded haul vlogging phenomenon. How zealously fashion and style businesses compete for their products to get a place in such divinely influential liturgies of fashion – whether they be the scriptures of celebrity gossip, fashion blogs or a conspicuously spoiled brat with a webcam and too much time on their hands – to be recommended as the gospel truth of all that’s oh so now by the “experts.” Terry Eagleton pointed out in The Significance of Theory “Power succeeds by persuading us to desire and collude with it; this process is not merely an enormous confidence trick, since we really do have needs and desires which such power, however partially and distortedly, is able to fulfill,” so now you know. My sincere thanks for his use and acknowledgement of the word “distortedly” but I digress, since that may be the mentality fashion wants to perpetuate to keep us buying and consuming to keep it afloat, but here at Chic Cheat, I have other ideas, namely those of the recycling, reworking and customising persuasion. That’s right – stick that, academics! Looks like you don’t have to play the financially feckless fashion victim to be fabulous, after all! Or should I stay out of that debate, being at a disadvantage as only a part-time navel-gazer?

While we’re on the subject of ever-changing fashion, I spent most of my art education theorising on post-modernism and the idea that every possible style has already been done, but in a way that leaves an array of possible references and permutations that can be mixed together in different ways to create new visual messages. This gave me some meaty food for thought and the motivation to dissect the meanings of each look I explore as well as the clothes I cut and splice through to recreate them. This season has seen a resurgence of sixties trends, including jewel tones, bold Cardin-esque tailoring and an explosive, body-conscious take on polka dots. It’s out with the quaint, clown-like fare of fifties fashion…

… and in with the spotty sex appeal of the sixties…

…reiterated as a collaged concoction today – for us to celebrate in DIY-form.

Difficulty

Medium 

More on the painstaking and time-consuming side, this one, but a good technique and precision for circle cutting certainly helps.

You will need

A white dress with a mesh top

1.5x 1m white twill or a similarly stiff fabric

1m bondaweb

White thread

Ruler

Compass and pencil

Iron and ironing board

Sharp fabric scissors

 

 And your mission is, if you choose to accept…

Fold your twill in half, across the length and sandwich your bondaweb in between.

Iron your bondaweb in place on a high heat, one side at a time. Maybe I should mention that you need to peel the paper off the second time around – just sayin’!

Using your compass, pencil and ruler (as you may see, I used a patternmaster for mine but fear not for a ruler will do) measure and draw a circle 5cm in diameter directly onto your fabric and repeat this 50 or so times. Ensure you only do this on the twill that has bondaweb and another layer beneath it.

Using your fabric scissors, cut your circles out. I find it helps most to skim your scissors along the edge, pulling on the fabric as you go, to avoid nasty jagged edges.

Repeat this process with 150-200 smaller circles 2cm in diameter. This process may prove long-winded and hard work, so I recommend you stick the telly on or some of your favourite music, or perhaps even a DVD – here at Chic Cheat we like to take a liberal view of each reader’s approach, you’ll be pleased to know.

Time to finally stitch them on individually. It’s yet another painstaking phase but it’s thankfully on the home run. Stitch most of your larger circles in a cluster on the bust with the rest sprinkled sparingly around the top, and your smaller circles in a linear cluster across the middle of both sides of the skirt, graduating more sparingly outwards towards the top and bottom.

…And you should have something that looks like this:

A spot of stylish crafty chic to see you through the season!

Bal-mania!

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So, this is my final post before the bi-annual holy grail of all things fabulous that is Fashion Week – or rather, before it’s over, and Chic Cheat begins its foray into all the new trends.  Worry not, dear readers, for I’m not too far out to sea to know it’s already started…and this time, with a new twist in the tale of fashion’s ever-unfolding story.  As The Global Herald…erm… heralded, on Saturday in its Google-search-topping article, the “New Digital Era Spells Trouble for Fashion Bloggers”. Now far be it for me -being but a humble fashion blogger, myself – to embark on a debate regarding the finer points of semantics, but read the article and I think you’ll agree it’s not the bloggers facing said trouble, but the journalists and editors who find themselves competing with them.  Hundreds of them.  Thus, the resounding sentiment felt by all those from the official, printed press, was one of concern.   And with the sheer amount, and pace, of media available, it has every reason to be – though I could only guffaw when the author wrote “quite clearly, we can’t go on running out of Danish pastries as a result of the presence of hundreds of bloggers ” as if those are going to be the only pies their new-found competitors will be trying to dip their fingers in!

Needless to say, I can’t wait to give LFW’s gems (whether or not of the Swarovski variety) the Chic Cheat treatment.  But first, as promised, I must hie with haste to my Chic Cheat ode to Balmain’s Spring/Summer ’10 collection – on the double!

Difficulty

Medium

Think I’m going to put this one down as so-so, where level of difficulty is concerned.  It’s generally straightforward, but has its moments, namely when it comes to assembling and attaching the epaulettes.

Hours

A day or two’s work, most of which can involves idle gluing and stitching, and can therefore be done in front of the telly!  Good times!

You will need…

The following customising ingredients, available from all good haberdashers.  Here’s what I paid for mine, and therefore round about what you should expect to pay for yours.  Prices may vary and could well be significantly more in London:

  • Olive green military-style jacket.  I got mine from H&M, at a cost of £25, and struggled to find anything cheaper.  However, I came across black and navy jackets for about £10 at Primark, so it’s worth a look to see if your local branch has one in green.
  • Bead and fabric glue - £1.75 bottle, Creative Beadcraft (www.creativebeadcraft.co.uk , 1 Marshall Street, London W1F 9BA , Tel: 020 7734 1982)
  • Needle and golden brown thread to match gold trims and adornments.
  • 1metre of black fringing, with a drop of 10-15cm
  • Scissors.
  • Sewing machine (optional).
  • Total Cost

    Mine worked out pricey by Chic Cheat standards, owing to how elusive the style of jacket proved to be.  I think it came to about £44, however…

    Save It!

    …It’s better than parting with $9000 (about £5844 if my computer’s currency converter is to be believed!) the approximate asking price for one of the originals.  That’s a saving of £5800!

    And now, to soldier on…

    First of all, you need to get the quasi-braided look along the neckline and about 26cm along the middle of each sleeve, starting at the cuff. Glue your gold braided trim to your fabric in the pattern below.  Make your pattern about 4cm wide and copy the following steps:

    Now, for the epaulettes.  Cut out two of the following shape in your flat foam wadding and four of the following in gold lamé.

    Place your wadding on top of a piece of lamé, in the centre, so that you have 1cm’s seam allowance all round.  Then place another piece of lamé on top, mirroring the first, so that the wadding is in the centre.

    Stitch the two layers of lamé together, 1cm from the edge, ideally by machine.  You can do it by hand, but make sure it’s tight and secure.

    Repeat this process with the remaining piece of wadding and two pieces of lamé.

    Cut away some of the excess fabric around the edge.

    Cut out two sets of 40cm of your fringing and fold them back on each other, so that you have two double-thickness sets of fringe 20cm in length.

    Cut out as many 15cm pieces as possible out of your gold and brown leather string. Glue or stitch down at fairly regular intervals along your fringing.

    When your glue has dried, stitch the top of your decorated fringing along the wide, round end of each of your epaulettes.

    Stitch your gold trim around the edge of each of your epaulettes and over the side of the fringing.

    Stitch your epaulettes along the shoulders of your jacket, with the fringing covering the top of the sleeves.

    Left-right-left- right- left-and pose-and strut-and exude- and sparkle for the camera, darling- because there’s no daily battle you won’t be able to face in this simply chic solution!

    Charley’s Final Thought

    Check out Balmain’s whole collection, and you’ll notice they brought Napoleonic wartime finery into the 21st century with a new take on epaulettes, straying, in some of their catwalk creations, from the confines of bristle and fringe normality to incorporate leather and chains.

    Why don’t you try….

    Leather:

    No need to spend way into the double digits on a whole skin, rather trawl your local leather and suede-monger for gold, bronze or brown offcuts.  Then, simply, patch the leather pieces around your wadding, to cover it, and dangle some strips from the round part.

    If you’re lucky enough to call London your stomping ground, good places to look are:

    JT Batchelor, 9-10 Culford Mews, London, Tel: 020 7254 2962

    Alma Leather, 12-14 Greatorex Street, London E1 5NF,Tel: 020 7377 0762

    Borovick Fabrics, 16 Berwick Street, London W1F 0HP, Tel: 020-7437-2180

    Walter Reginald, Unit 6, 100 the highway, London E1 W2BX. Tel: 020 7481 2233

    chains

    Chains:

    Even more straightforward, this one.  Invest in a pair of shoulder pads from Klein’s for £2.50 (www.kleins.co.uk, 5 Noel Street (in London’s Soho)  W1F 8GD , Tel 020 7437 6162 ).

    Cover your pads in gold lamé, or leather – you can even use fake leather for this one – and simply stitch some chains to the edge.

    You can buy chains in gold and silver by the metre at Hobbycraft.  Find your local store at www.hobbycraft.co.uk